Beginning Kyoto

Hello Friends,
I hope this finds you in fine fettle.

Sitting in my spacious six tatami room* at the Tomato Guest House. Less than a ten minute walk from Kyoto Station.

Took the overnight bus from Tokyo. Here’s the lovely Willer Express check-in lady at work.

This is a shot with my flash of my ‘cocoon’ on the bus. The actually lighting on the bus was provided by red lights on the ceiling. Very nice as long as you were looking for something big like your seat rather than trying to figure out the controls on the entertainment centre.

The seat reclined way back. That entertainment centre at the front of the space I used to watch a crap Hollywood movie before falling asleep. The ride was very smooth as we were travelling on a main highway the whole time. The main comfort problem was that the length was really for six foot or shorter. I’m six foot two. (Strangely enough, the Indian overnight buses are better arranged. They have enclosed bunks stacked end to end two high that give you a very spacious private place. Very nice for sleeping. Or reading or just looking out the window.)

We arrived at six in the morning at Kyoto Station. As happens so often in this life when one has arrived at an early hour, the guest house reception opens at nine. I hung around a temple for a while,  found the guest house location and happened onto this beautiful mosque.

 

 

The ever faithful body was indicating it’s need for sustenance when I chanced upon this nice ‘Morning Set’ brekkie at a small hotel. Such a lovely presentation for a simple toast, tea and a hard boiled egg. (And, a salad.) Tasted good as well. (Very rare to find bread other than this white air bread in Japan 😦

 

At nine, I dropped off my luggage and headed to a sento (public bath) that is open from seven in the morning. After twenty-six hours on the rode, I was ready. Soap and rinse outside the shallow pool. Then, slip into the water so hot that it melts your bones. Did three rounds of hot, cold. Brushed the trusty teeth. Dragged a comb through my hare and once in my togs, stuck one hundred yen in the slot for ten minutes in the massage chair. I could do this on a regular basis with ease.

The guest house has a 4pm check-in. Six hours and counting.

Midday, I lashed out in a top floor restaurant of Isetan Department Store with a wonderful cold soba set. Yummm.

 

I looked at the tourist map and headed to an indicated garden only a few blocks from Kyoto Station. This turned out to be a successful move.

This beautiful wall greeted me

and was followed by a couple tea houses beside a lilly covered lake.

As well as this stream.

I found myself a secluded spot and pulled out the old bamboo for a pleasant little blow. Had to cut it short as I was being attacked by the local mozzies. These secluded spots have their drawbacks.

Following on from the garden, I continued to pass my time eating green tea ice cream and wandering from one sitting spot to the next waiting for four of the clock to appear. Wandering from here to there wishing that I were in my soon-to-be-bed rather than seeing the sights.

However, I knew that I owed it to my reader to make that extra effort and not be collected by the police for curling up in the middle of the sidewalk as I felt to do a few times. (As much as that might make a colourful episode.)

Four o’clock did arrive. Check in was a success. Sorted a few things and descended into that delicious snooze land. Am now sitting with a belly digesting  homemade muesli ( smuggled into Japan) for dinner. Feeling invigorated and looking forward to tomorrow. Will be seeing some sights and locating one or two of the vegetarian restaurants the I have a list of somewhere. On Monday, we begin the Summer Shakuhachi Camp of the Rockies (transplanted to Kyoto) in a lead up to the World Shakuhachi Festival. Yeah, Team Kundan.

Cheers

* A tatami mat is approximately 0.88 metre by 1.76 metres.

OK, I’m going.

Hello Friends,
Over the last few years, so many of my friends have been travelling to all these exotic place. They come back here and say to me, “Kundan, you’re such a homebody. You need to travel farther than Mullumbimby. You need to get out and see the world.”

Well, it just got to be too much, so, I decided to go to the next exotic place that was mentioned to me. Then, some guy tells me about this World Shakuhachi Festival in Kyoto, Japan. (Whatever a shakuhachi is.) Now, I’m a man who sticks to his word, so, I booked a flight for this next Friday to take me to Japan. I told my friends and they said, that’s a good start. It is exotic enough but it’s not far enough. It’s only one time zone. You won’t even get jetlag from that flight.

I had an idea. I called my brother and said, “You think it would be ok with Curt if I came to his wedding?” My brother hesitated and replied, “Hmmm, I’ll put in a word for you but just because he’s your nephew don’t expect him to say ‘yes’. After the last time that you were here… I mean… if I weren’t on such good terms with the fire and police departments….”

Well, my nephew was feeling magnanimous and, so, I added California to my trip. That’s at least five or six time zones. My friends seem satisfied but insist that I do another longer trip after this one and not wait ten years in-between. I’ll see what I can do.

Cheers, Kundan

The Himalayan Mountain Yatra

Hello Friends,
In 2008, after two months of being in India, I was looking a place to which to retreat. I read about a home stay called Orchard Hut, http://www.himalayanlap.com/, located up a valley beyond a small city called Chamba; “beyond where most tourist go.” Sounded like just what the doctor ordered. As it turned out, it was that and more. I went intending to stay a  week or so and stayed a month. The location was beautiful, the food was delicious and nutritious, the water sprang pure straight out of the mountain and most of all the family were so loving and caring I just melted. It was difficult to leave and I have been feeling the tug to return ever since.

Then, this year, I learned of a group of Buddhists here in Australia, http://yatra.org.au/yatra-bushwalking-club/, who organise a couple treks a year that include meditation practice. I was inspired. I contacted the Dhami family at Orchard Hut. In addition to running a home stay for over twenty years, they also organise treks. Several members of the family are experienced licensed mountain guides. I am happy to announce that we have put together the Himalayan Mountain Yatra. A journey in which the beauty and joy of experiencing the inner  and outer heighten the whole. It will be a nine day trek with time at Orchard Hut before and after the trek. Arrival at Orchard Hut is on 15 Sept with departure after completion of the trek on 28 Sept.  The full itinerary is below. I have also begun a blog, http://himalayanmountainyatra.wordpress.com/, and a Facebook page.

The trek days will begin with time for some exercise of your choice before breakfast. Before the walking there will be a 45 minute laughing/silence meditation. After the day’s walk there will be 45 minutes of sitting in wonder. Before bedtime, there will be a circle of spontaneous voicing where we will leave behind all known languages and allow sound to flow through us until we reach silence. Each voice is correct whatever volume, rhythm, pitch, tone or harmony occurs. Walking will be in silence with meal times available for quiet conversation.

There will be porters and ponies to carry the rucksacks and supplies. You will only need to carry a day pack with a few essentials during the walking. The times quoted in the itinerary are walking at an easy pace with breaks. The difficulty will be easy to  moderate. The temperatures should be very pleasant. Lowest in the night time 10- 15 degrees Celsius (that’s 50- 60 degrees Filistine ;-). Noon time around 22- 28 degrees C ( 71- 82 F).

The full cost of the entire adventure including time at Orchard Hut and the trek is Rps 32285 for a maximum of 25 people. Transport to and from Orchard Hut is additional. Any enquiries, reservations or payments should be made to manimaheshtravels@yahoo.com. Mani Mahesh Travels is the Dhami family’s business and can arrange transport from and to Delhi airport or other travel in India.

Please pass on this post to anyone who may be interested.
Cheers, Kundan

Full Itinerary

Day 1 (15 Sept)- Arrive at Orchard Hut.
Sleep in tents or rooms at Orchard Hut.

Day 2 &3 – Stay at Orchard Hut. Short walks or treks available.
Sleep at Orchard Hut.

Day 4 – After breakfast Mountain Yatra starts to Rulpuli (Ht.2225M) (Ridge Moor Cottage) around 4-5 hrs hike through forest of Devdar (cedar) and oak trees terrace fields and tribal shepherd villages. Reach Rulpuli by the tea time. From where one can see 360 degree view of Himalayas ( Dhauladhar and Pir panjal ranges)                                                                             Dinner and Camp Fire.                                                  Night stay in tent at Ridge moor cottage.

This trekking hut away from the village is at about 2225m. and has a spectacular 360 degree view of the Dhauladar ranges and snow capped mountains of the Pir-Panjal Himalayan range.  The house, built in traditional form, is at the peak of a mountain on a pasture surrounded by spruce, cedar and rhododendron trees.  The place is 9 to 10 km from Orchard Hut and a 4 to 5 hour trek.

Day 5 — Excursion to Kunbag –Kassa  (holy mountain ridge) and back.
Night stay  just like previous night.

Day 6 –Mountain Yatra ( trekking) continue towards no men land Khabbi gaining more height .
Night stay in tents.

Day 7 – Today Yatra touch’s the height of about 3000mtrs. named TOPI, and we reach other side of the highest point named SUNDERANI – DHAR.                                           N /S in tents on grassy pasture.

Day 8 —  To day trekking up on the ridge of mountain known as DIHBARI – DHAR and back. Views both sides of the ridge are spectacular.                                                           N/S just like previous night.

Day 9 – Yatra continues descending to a place TALLI, spending  night in tents.

Day  10—Early morning Yatra starts to a beautiful place CHAKHUND – LAKE. Hike can take 6-7 hrs. Chakhund is the place where a small lake on the pasture surrounded by cedar trees looks like jewel on the earth. Again we enjoy 360 degree views of Himalayas.                                                    N / S in tents.

Days 11  is spent at Chakhund  providing  time to enjoy the lake or a short trek.
N / S in tents.

Day  12 – Descending  to road head takes 5-6hrs. from where up to road head of Orchard by jeep.
N / S in tent or room at orchard hut.

Day 13 – Relax at Orchard Hut-
Night in tent.

Day 14 (28 Sept) – Leave Orchard Hut or stay on for some more R&R.